There is always something unique and special about visiting a major Bordeaux château that is family owned and operated. Many of the larger properties are owned by major corporations or businesses, so it is wonderful to visit a family estate. This was immediately apparent as we were greeted by Séverine Bonnie, who owns and manages the property with her husband Jean-Jacques, upon our arrival at Château Malartic Lagravière. Obviously she is very passionate about winemaking, and ever since the Bonnie family purchased the property in 1997, their dedication led to significant investments to elevate the quality of their wines.
Many properties in the Pessac-Léognan appellation, just south of Bordeaux city, produce both a red and dry white wine. However, what distinguishes Malartic- Lagravière is that it is one of only six Bordeaux châteaux that achieved the Graves classification in 1953 of both their red and white wines. In 2015, they were also certified as Haute Valeur Environnementale, which is the highest of three levels of environmental certification. This shows that the family is not only committed to producing a high quality wine, but also a commitment to the environment.
Malartic Lagravière has a vast history, highlighted by the admiral’s ship found on their label. This pays homage to a famous admiral, whose family purchased the estate in the 18th century. In the welcoming area, there is a replica of the ship that they had built in Mauritius after finding the actual plans of the ship. More history could also be seen while walking through a long hallway, adorned with framed pictures of the old labels and artwork representing their vines. We then visited the vineyards, where we saw well ripened bunches of grapes. In the distance we could also view the chateau on the property, which has beautiful landscaping surrounding it.
Upon entering the winemaking facilities, it was interesting to learn that they were also one of the first in Bordeaux to adopt the gravity system to transport the grapes into the vats, which is a highly adopted technique in many wineries around the world today. This leads to gentler handling of the grapes so that they remain intact to retain more flavors and aromas for the finished wine. The impressive winemaking facilities were renovated in 1999, highlighted by an impressive vat room.
The wonderful visit concluded in their beautiful tasting room with its open sliding glass doors that open directly to the vineyards. It is always special to have the opportunity to taste an estate’s wines with the family owners, especially in such an idyllic setting. It should be noted that family members are not always present for all visits, but we were fortunate to spend the day with the delightful Séverine. On this day, we tasted the 2009 and 2010 Malartic Lagravière rouge, and the 2013 Malartic Lagravière blanc. The Bonnie family acquired another nearby property, Château Gazin Rocquencourt, in 2006, which is where the family currently resides. In addition to the Malartic Lagravière, we also tasted the 2012 Gazin Rocquencourt rouge and 2010 Gazin Rocquencourt blanc. The wines were all excellent and really exhibited the style of the producer. It was a fitting end to a very enjoyable visit.
